Good Food, Bad Weather, PERU!

I've been putting the Inca Trail on the back burner for several years. Other things came up; no offense, Peru, but some things took priority. But with recent life overhauls it became apparent that it was time to trudge along an ancient mountain road for four days in order to visit an ancient site that is easily accessed by others via train and bus.

We ended up selecting Peru Treks, a medium-sized trekking company based in Cusco that specializes in the four day version of the trail and provides English-speaking guides. I can muddle through in Spanish but I wanted a more complete experience. The service was excellent from day negative one, as we received an extensive briefing two days before the trip. Having already hiked the Cordillera Blanca, the guide told us he expected us to be faster than everyone else. Turns out, he was right.

Loaded down with a full pack, our old joints summited peaks ahead of 23 year-old doofs who had hired porters to carry their designer skivvies. But it wasn't just me. Our 16 person crew sprinted over mountains like the Incas of old, minus the strange knots they used as writing. Our speed was likely due to the food provided to us by capable chef Eddie and his team of porters. Three course meals were the standard, usually including soup, an appetizer, and a hearty main, most of which were traditional Peruvian food. Every meal finished with coca tea, which according to the locals can cure everything from altitude sickness to a punch in the throat. Now, most of the camping I've done is usually fuelled by Mr. Noodles, hot dogs, and PB&J sandwiches, so this was pretty much the height of luxury (Chicken! Beef! Alpaca!). We even sampled local favourites like chicha, which I intend to make upon my return to Canada (also try the version made by Dog Fish Head Brewery in Delaware, if you can find it).

The first day was "hiking gradually" as our guide Frank (Francisco) liked to say. Pleasant views, not too warm or too cold, nice and sunny. Nothing special to report other than perfect conditions for photos (coming eventually). We met our fellow hikers and fell into easy conversation.

Day two we awoke to rain, which quit after breakfast and then reappeared periodically as we attempted to reach the 4,200 m pass, the highest point on the trail. Just as I reached it, the rain became hail and I went from pretty wet to completely soaked and freezing. That was de rigueur for the next two days. The rest of day two was a bone crunching downstair hike to the camp, where I showered in freezing river water and was the only clean attendee at dinner that night.

Day three was much the same as day two, but with more rain, less hail, and plenty of Inca sites to see from under our hoods. At lunch Frank and assistant guide Amadeus (favourite band: Falco) informed us that there had been a mudslide between camp three and Machu Picchu, so we would have to change plans. We expressed our collective desire to pursue the most ambitious alternative plan and embarked upon the remainder of what would be a 12-hour day of walking, eventually arriving in the town of Aguas Calientes, where the guides and porters made the very best of the situation and we had an excellent time.

Rising the next day at 3:30 am to don our still wet shoes and still stinking raincoats, we began the schlep up the mountain to Machu Picchu, our ultimate goal, with thousands of other jokers who hadn't walked for 51 km to get there. It rained harder than ever. I don't mean on this trip, I mean EVER, in history. There is a pleasant and sad hilarity in standing atop an ancient Incan temple and counting the minutes until the first bus is scheduled to descend back to Aguas Calientes and its associated creature comforts like dry underwear and nap time.

But still, even with such terrible weather, it was amazing. Look at photos if you need to, but I can't really describe the place. Just go. It was worth every raindrop, every stone step, every squat toilet; don't let people tell you to wait for the dry season, have an adventure instead. And if any of my new friends from the trail are reading this, thanks for kicking ass.

Also, big thanks to Peru Treks. If you're thinking about going, go with these guys. Frank and Amadeus were fun, adaptable, safe, and full of information. I can't say enough good things about these guys.