Movin' On...

Find my new blog over at dogbicycle.tumblr.com. Thanks.

Four milks are better than three

Several years ago I saw an episode of Good Eats on the Food Network in which host Alton Brown makes Tres Leches cake; literally, three milks cake. You basically make a white cake and allow a mixture of whole, evaporated, and condensed cow juice absorb into it. The promise of a completely fat- and sugar-soaked bite of cake burned itself into the desire portion of my brain. But I lived with a lactose-intolerant person (read: sissy) for many years and never got around to making the cake myself.

Then, in Peru, in January, at a bakery, I finally tried it. Imagine the heaviest, sweetest cake possible, which is simultaneously cool and refreshing. Yeah, food love. I ate it everyday I had access to said bakery.

So I dropped the ball again...

My last post was February 13, 2011. It is now March 18. To be fair, I'm on an island where the day of the week doesn't really matter to me. I think it might be Friday.

Also, Canada is the fourth country I've set foot in during that period, so I had some traveling to do to get to Hornby Island, where right now I'm sitting in the Access Centre using the free wifi to deal with all of the photos that I took over the last nine months. Brain aneurysm.

Many Happy Returns

So we're back in La Paz. I love this city. Steep streets, good coffee, tasty and cheap food. But the thing I like most is the familiarity. I've been here before. There is something comforting about going back to a place on a trip like this. It's different than going back to Nanaimo (still doubling in length every year), or Vancouver (still amazed by the Olympic venues; where did all the homeless people go?), or Edmonton (still sucky, but different somehow), or Compton (still D.R.E.).

It has a lot to do with logistics. The first place on this trip that we went back to was Lima. Upon arrival, we already knew the address of our hostel, including street intersection, and how much the cab should cost. We already knew where to get coffee, what we wanted for lunch and where to get it, and where the good supermarket is. We had been in Lima for one day previously, but that's enough. Lima became the closest thing to home up to that point.

Trust Me

I've been thinking a lot about trust the last few weeks. It has occurred to me that traveling requires a person to trust strangers more often than usual. This first popped into my head as I was hurtling down the side of a mountain on a bicycle...

Good Food, Bad Weather, PERU!

I've been putting the Inca Trail on the back burner for several years. Other things came up; no offense, Peru, but some things took priority. But with recent life overhauls it became apparent that it was time to trudge along an ancient mountain road for four days in order to visit an ancient site that is easily accessed by others via train and bus.

We ended up selecting Peru Treks, a medium-sized trekking company based in Cusco that specializes in the four day version of the trail and provides English-speaking guides. I can muddle through in Spanish but I wanted a more complete experience. The service was excellent from day negative one, as we received an extensive briefing two days before the trip. Having already hiked the Cordillera Blanca, the guide told us he expected us to be faster than everyone else. Turns out, he was right.

The least Peruvian thing we could have done

Meat. Giant piles of meat. And MTV from the Eighties.

Last night began as most of our adventures do: with the pursuit of food. The plan was to head to a place in south Trujillo called El Uruguayo, a place with a reputation for large portions of tasty barbeque. We suited up for the outing, as the weather in Trujillo is quite mild and pants were required, and caught a taxi. I started out by incorrectly calling the restaurant El Urugayano, a subtle but important difference. But I had the address so it should have been fine. That is, if Lonely Planet had done their research better.

Peru - Where is the colon on this keyboard?

After more than six years, I have returned to Latin America. The original jaunt through Nicaragua and Costa Rica in 2004 was the first real taste of my only true addiction - travel. A relatively sober period (discounting the camera addiction) in Edmonton led to falling off the wagon and a six month bender through the US and UK in 2010. But now I'm back to my travel roots - espanol, cafe con leche, and delicious, delicious carbohydrates. Bread with your rice? Yes, please.