Thursday, April 29, 2010

Transcendental Stimulation

Transcend Coffee's Garneau location opened last week in the old Pharos Pizza unit next to the Garneau Theatre. This is good. This is what we've all been waiting for. And don't get me wrong, I appreciate not having to drive all the way to godforsaken 62 Avenue and 98 Street to get a cup of Clover coffee (now owned by Starbucks - boo). But seriously, what in Jesus' name took so long? When you see the phrase "Coming Soon" you kind of assume that "soon" means "before I go crazy from unrequited coffee lust." Apparently not so.

But that's okay. The coffee is amazing and the first cup I had made up for the delayed opening. I had a cappuccino, K had a macchiato, we sipped and sat and sipped. It was excellent coffee. To paraphrase K, "it's the most coffee-ish coffee of them all," which is a comparison referencing brews offered by Leva, Da Capo, Tesoro, Sorrentino's, and Credo, though I think Credo does a better job of more complicated drinks. The espresso at Transcend is smooth and layered, without pussyfooting around too much; you get the punch you expect, but can still savour it on your palette like a fine wine.

The service is finely tuned as well; Transcend is exclusively staffed by coffee enthusiasts who don't exude the aloof douchebaggery common to Da Capo's staff just up 109 Street. They'll also give you a take-out cup, which Da Capo doesn't, and which I prefer not to do, but sometimes I forget to bring a travel mug and I have to be somewhere.

The decor is modern, but the brick wall helps to keep the place from feeling too sterile. Huge coffee-related photos adorn the walls, a flat screen TV teaches patrons about El Presidente's efforts to ethically source beans, and the chairs, miraculously, are comfortable. As K and I sat there, we remarked upon how much unoccupied space there is the middle of the shop. It seemed to be a bit of a waste. Then 25 people showed up at the same time and we understood.

Imagined transcript of a conversation between Transcend staff:

"Sir, we're running out of space in the back for the money."
"Take some to the bank."
"Sir, it's Sunday."
"God help us all. Quickly, here are the keys to my apartment. Take some of these stacks of hundreds and put them under my mattress."
"Should I take the pickup truck?"
"Take both pickup trucks."

And so on. These guys are going to clean up in that neighbourhood. Unless Da Capo changes its attitude, I'm not sure it'll be able to keep treading water much longer.

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